Chinese Culture Hanfu

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【Historical Artifact Reference】:

Ming Dynasty Royal Portrait:

・Portrait of Empress Xiaoduanxian (Chinese: 孝端顯皇后; 7 November 1564 – 7 May 1620) In ceremonial dress (翟衣/di yi)

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・Nine Dragons and Nine Phoenix Crowns of Empress Xiaoduanxian (※This Phoenix Crowns only for important ceremonial occasion which call “礼冠/Li Guan” wear with ceremonial dress(翟衣/di yi) 

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Unearthed from Ming Dynasty royal mausoleum Ming Dingling (明定陵)  , is a mausoleum wehre Wanli Emperor, together with his two empresses Wang Xijie and Dowager Xiaojing, was buried.

In addition to this phoenix crown, the Empress has another phoenix crown for other occasions.

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Collection of the National Museum of China.

This phoenix crown is 35.5 cm high, 20 cm in diameter, and weighs more than 2,000 grams. It is inlaid with hundreds of high-quality gemstones of various colors and decorated with more than 5,000 fine pearls.

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[Hanfu・漢服]Chinese Ming Dynasty Traditional Clothing Hanfu (翟衣) & Phoenix Crown (鳳冠)  Reference to Ming Dynasty Relics & Empress Portrait

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【History Note】

  • Diyi (Chinese: 翟衣), also called known as huiyi (褘衣) and miaofu (Chinese: 庙服), is the historical Chinese attire worn by the empresses of the Song dynasty and by the empresses and crown princesses (wife of crown prince) in the Ming Dynasty. 


  • The Diyi also had different names based on its colour, such as yudi, quedi, and weidi. It is a formal wear meant only for ceremonial purposes. It is a form of shenyi (Chinese: 深衣), and is embroidered with long-tail pheasants (Chinese: 翟; pinyin: dí or Chinese: 褘; pinyin: hui) and circular flowers (Chinese: 小輪花; pinyin: xiǎolúnhuā). It is worn with guan known as fengguan (lit. ‘phoenix crown’) which is typically characterized by the absence of dangling string of pearls by the sides. It was first recorded as Huiyi in the Zhou dynasty(1050–221 BCE).


  • The Diyi follows the traditional Confucian standard system for dressing, which is embodied in its form through the shenyi(深衣) system. The garment known as shenyi(深衣) is itself the most orthodox style of clothing in traditional Chinese Confucianism; its usage of the concept of five colours, and the use of di-pheasant bird pattern.

【 Influence to Other Country】

  • Korea

Korean queens started to wear the Diyi (Korean: 적의; Hanja: 翟衣) in 1370 AD under the final years of Gongmin of Goryeo,when Goryeo adopted the official ceremonial attire of the Ming dynasty. Same as the early Korea Joseon, were bestowed by the Ming Dynasty.

According to the Annals of Joseon, from 1403 to the first half of the 17th century the Ming Dynasty sent a letter, which confers the korea queen with a title along with the following items: 翟冠(Ming womens whose husband held the highest government official posts can wear this kind of crown,different from Ming Empress Phoenix Crown 鳳冠), a vest called 褙子(Beizi), and a 霞帔(Xiapei). However, the Diyi sent by the Ming dynasty did not correspond to those worn by the Ming empresses as Joseon was considered to be ranked two ranks lower than Ming.

Instead the Diyi which was bestowed corresponded to the Ming women’s whose husband held the highest government official posts. In the early Ming Dynasty period, the Diyi were given to Korea Joseon By Ming, but after the Ming Dynasty reformed the clothing system, The Ming Dynasty bestow the 大衫( Dà shān) to the Korean queen instead of Diyi. The Diyi worn by the Korean queen and crown princess was originally made of red silk; it then became blue in 1897 when the Joseon king and queen were elevated to the status of emperor and empress.

it then became blue in 1897 when the Joseon king and queen were elevated to the status of emperor and empress.

After the fall of the Ming Dynasty, the system of China granting clothing to Korea was interrupted. Korea Joseon were forced to become tributary state of the Qing Dynasty. Korea Joseon carried out “nationalization” based on the costumes bestowed by the Ming Dynasty in the past.  But according <Veritable Records of the Joseon Dynasty Volume 46> “嬪宮冊禮時, 旣有翟衣, 則當有翟冠, 而我國匠人不解翟冠之制。 考諸《謄錄》, 則宣廟朝壬寅年嘉禮時, 都監啓以: ‘七翟冠之制, 非但匠人未有解知者, 各樣等物, 必須貿取於中朝, 而終難自本國製造, 何以爲之?’ 云則宣庙有: ‘冠則制造爲難。’ 之敎。 “

Although Korea Joseon has Diyi,but no craftsman know how to make 翟冠(Di Guan), and the materials needed for make 翟冠(Di Guan) need to be taken from China (which need money for that). After all, it is difficult to manufacture in Korea. Therefore, Korea Joseon has not worn 翟冠(Di Guan) since the fall of the Ming Dynasty and change it to 대수머리(大首머리)

Korea "nationalization” process↓

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대수머리(大首머리)

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  • Japan

In Japan, the features of the Tang dynasty-style huiyi was found as a textile within the formal attire of the Heian Japanese empresses.

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Pinned Post Chinese Hanfu Ming Dynasty chinese fashion history Chinese Culture Phoenix Crown 鳳冠 Di yi/翟衣 chinese chinese historical fashion Empress Xiaoduanxian Nine Dragons and Nine Phoenix Crowns Sinosphere hanfu history China History
guzhuangheaven

saurons-fat-rack asked:

Your blog is so interesting! Thanks for sharing all this with us. This might not be your area of expertise, but I've been watching love game in eastern fantasy and am OBSESSED with Esther Yu's hair in it. Do you know if these styles are based on or inspired by any real historical hairstyles? Or are they just xianxia creativity haha?

peekofhistory answered:

Hi!! :D

Thank you for sending in your question! I took a look at the hairstyles for this show and did a quick compilation:

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So it looks most of the hairstyles she has is centre-parted with some small loops on each side, decorated with small flowers and some strands/braids trailing down.

When I searched for a dynasty this show was set in, officially it’s “jiakong” (not based in an actual time period) but some fans have spotted hints of Tang/Song.

This sort of hairstyle would likely be a mish-mash of several different styles put together:

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Centre-parted hair with some sort of bun or small loops on either side is a style that was common in several dynasties, but used for very young girls or servants. So the character designer(s) definitely took inspiration from history, but added their own touch to it :)

[China History] Bound by Blood, Denied by Law: A History of Women’s Inheritance in China［Eng Sub］

Step into a thousand years of silence.

This is a film about women’s inheritance rights were gradually stripped away during the era of China’s feudal dynasties.

This is not just history. This is herstory.

A narrative long buried under rituals, surnames, and silence — now unearthed.

work by Bao Xian (@宝苋xian）

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https://v.douyin.com/UtQyMA3ZAyI/
v.douyin.com

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chinese hanfu herstory women’s inheritance rights hanfu hanfu accessories hanfu_challenge china chinese traditional clothing china history woman right chinese 宝苋xian imperial china 历史 女性历史 漢服 汉服 中華風
fouryearsofshades
niteshade925

A fairly good general reference video about historical/traditional fashion of various cultures and peoples (including hanfu, but not just hanfu) that have been part of Chinese history:

The video is arranged in chronological order, below are the timestamps:

  • 0:24 - Warring States period/战国 hanfu (for those who don't know: hanfu/汉服 is the historical and traditional outfits of Han people/汉族)
  • 1:16 - Western Han dynasty/西汉 hanfu
  • 2:11 - Jingjue Kingdom/精绝 and Loulan Kingdom/楼兰 historical outfits
  • 2:45 - Eastern Han dynasty/东汉 to Three Kingdoms period/三国 hanfu
  • 3:51 - Northern Dynasties/北朝 Xianbei/鲜卑 historical outfits
  • 4:46 - Southern Dynasties/南朝 hanfu
  • 5:25 - Sui dynasty/隋 hanfu
  • 5:56 - Tang dynasty/唐 hanfu
  • 6:38 - Sogdian/粟特 historical outfits
  • 6:59 - Tubo Empire/吐蕃 Tibetan/藏族 historical outfits
  • 7:38 - Huihu/回鹘 historical outfits (Qocho Huihu Kingdom/高昌回鹘 and Ganzhou Huihu Kingdom/甘州回鹘; note: Huihu people are the ancestors of the modern Uyghur people/维吾尔族)
  • 8:21 - Nanzhao Kingdom/南诏 historical outfits (of the ancestors of the modern Yi people/彝族 and Bai people/白族)
  • 9:07 - Five Dynasties/五代 hanfu
  • 9:57 - Northern Song dynasty/北宋 hanfu
  • 10:38 - Liao dynasty/辽 Khitan/契丹 historical outfits
  • 11:21 - Jin dynasty/金 Jurchen/女真 historical outfits
  • 12:07 - Western Xia/西夏 Tangut/党项 historical outfits
  • 12:37 - Dali Kingdom/大理 historical outfits (of the ancestors of the modern Bai people/白族)
  • 13:20 - Southern Song dynasty/南宋 hanfu
  • 14:00 - Yuan dynasty/元 Mongolian/蒙古族 historical outfits
  • 14:58 - Yuan dynasty women's hanfu
  • 15:24 - Ming dynasty/明 hanfu
  • 16:24 - Qing dynasty/清 Manchu/满族 traditional outfits
  • 16:59 - Qing dynasty Han women's outfit

**Note: as mentioned by the OP, due to the lack of suriviving physical artifacts for some time periods/cultures/kingdoms/dynasties, there is a certain amount of speculation in this video based on other artifacts/records like wall murals, paintings, figurines, and historical records.

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618–907AD)Traditional Crown & Hanfu In Cdrama 【国色芳华/Flourished Peony】

♦ 𝗖𝗵𝗶𝗻𝗲𝘀𝗲 𝗔𝗰𝘁𝗼𝗿: 𝗭𝗵𝗮𝗻𝗴 𝗬𝗮𝗾𝗶𝗻/张雅钦
as Li Youzhen (李幼贞) “县主/County Princess/Lord”

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【Historical Artifacts Reference 】:

▶The crown and hair ornaments unearthed from the tomb of Li Chui,/李倕, a fifth-generation granddaughter of Emperor Gaozu of Tang China

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2.Gold necklace inlaid with pearls and gemstones, Late Sui Dynasty

Excavated in 1957 from the tomb of Li Jingxun, Xi'an, Shaanxi,China.

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“Flourished Peony” (《国色芳华》) is a really cool Chinese drama that dives deep into the Tang Dynasty. It takes a close look at the fashion, makeup, and etiquette of that time. The show’s team did a ton of research, to restore Tang Dynasty artifacts to get the hanfu and makeup just right. You can really see the effort they put into making everything look authentic and true to the era.

If you’re into Tang Dynasty Hanfu,Makeup , or the whole vibe of that period, I highly recommend watching this drama. It’s a great way to get a glimpse of ancient Chinese culture through a really well-done romantic drama.
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  • 【Debate on the Interpretation and Wearing of the Li Chui Tomb Crown Ornaments】

The crown ornaments unearthed from the tomb of Li Chui (李倕) are still a topic of debate due to the fact that the pieces were found scattered, making the exact method of wearing unclear. The version currently displayed in the museum is a reconstruction based on the collaborative efforts of Chinese and German experts. However, some scholars in China have a different view, arguing that this ornament may not necessarily be a “crown.”

Fwe can refer to the perspective of the author(@左丘萌) of Chinese Beauty and Adornments: The Tang Dynasty Daughters (《中国妆束：大唐女儿行》), who offers an alternative interpretation of how this crown ornament was likely worn（If anyone are interested, you can save the picture and translate it through the translator）

  • the right is the author (@左丘萌)’s restoration result and analysis process of the relics:
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chinese hanfu Tang Dynasty(618–907AD) crown ornaments Li Chui 李倕 chinese drama 国色芳华/Flourished Peony hanfu hanfu accessories hanfu_challenge china chinese traditional clothing chinese
guzhuangheaven
peekofhistory

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And we're back in business!! Chugging along into the Golden era of the Tang Dynasty :D

Four Tang (四唐)
The Tang Dynasty is often referred to as the Golden Age of Chinese history. With a flourishing economy and rich cultural developments, the Tang Dynasty went through some significant changes through its 290 years.

The "Four Tang" was originally used to differentiate different styles of poetry during the Tang Dynasty, but have also become used to categorize Hanfu styles. Please note that there is some discrepancy when exactly each period started/ended, but these are the general years used:
Early Tang / 初唐（618 — 713 AD）
Golden Era / 盛唐（713 — [755~766] AD）
Mid Tang / 中唐（[755~766] — [825~836] AD）
Late Tang / 晚唐（[825~836] — 907 AD)

Keep reading

guzhuangheaven
peekofhistory

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(Not done with the Qin/Han robes yet, but taking a quick break to hop to the next time period for something a bit different.)

魏晋南北朝的襦裙
Ruqun (2-piece outfit) during the Wei-Jin + Northern/Southern Dynasties (220 - 589 AD)

This time period spans over 350 years and incorporates:
1) the Three Kingdoms era,
2) the Jin Dynasty,
3) the Northern/Southern dynasties

History background:
Towards the end of the Eastern Han dynasty, the Han empire split into three kingdoms (Wei, Han, Wu) with Wei being the most powerful. Following almost a century of fighting, the three kingdoms were unified under the Jin Dynasty. Unfortunately, this didn't bring peace to the country as power struggles continued. Due to the continuous fighting, China's population was reduced drastically and many tribes from the north attacked, hoping to enlarge their own territory. This was a period of non-stop fighting and conflict, and it wasn't until the Sui Dynasty（581- 618 AD) that the country once again found peace.

Hanfu during this period:
In terms of Hanfu, many new styles appeared influenced by a clash of different ethnic groups and cultures. In the Eastern Han/Three Kingdoms period, Hanfu started to evolve from a 1-piece long robe (known as "Shenyi"/深衣) to a 2-piece set with the top and bottom separated (known as "Ruqun"/襦裙). The bottom skirt is pieced together using several long, rectangular pieces, pleated at the top and attached to a waist belt, allowing the bottom to flare out.

This 2-piece Ruqun style reached a peak during the Wei-Jin Northern/Southern dynasties period, and laid the foundation for many Hanfu styles in later dynasties.

*NOTE:
Since there are so many different styles during this period, there's a lot of information to dig through. I'm going to do my best to keep the it simple and straightforward, but if I get anything wrong or if there's anything confusion feel free to let me know :D

guzhuangheaven
peekofhistory

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One of the first Hanfu outfits I bought was this style (I still have it). At the time I thought it was representative of the Tang Dynasty, but later found out that it's more likely a style from the Five Dynasties (right after the Tang Dynasty). Some historians have also speculated that the one large flower on the top of the head is more of a Song Dynasty style rather than Tang.

It's a good reminder that all of these speculations about historical styles are based on what we can actually dig up, but obviously tombs are limited. Maybe tomorrow we'll find a new tomb with new artefacts that'll throw everything we think today upside-down xD

Keep reading

[Hanfu · 漢服]Chinese Tang Dynasty(618–907AD)Traditional Clothing Hanfu Based On Female Dancer figurines of Tang Dynasty

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【Historical Artifacts Reference 】:

▶Set of China Tang Dynasty“Tang Sancai" Figurines of Musicians and Dancers<鳥歌萬歲樂>・Wuzetian Period

Shaanxi Tang Sancai Art Museum Collection

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In the Tang Dynasty, women who usually wore bird crowns were mostly dancers, and the bird was often in the shape of a peacock or a parrot.

The historical records mention the bird crown worn by women during the Tang Dynasty several times. For instance, in Du You’s Tongdian (Volume 6, “Music Section,” regarding the “Sitting and Standing Performers”/《通典》乐六“坐立部伎), it is recorded: “The Guangsheng music(光圣乐) was created by Emperor Xuanzong. The dancers, eighty in number, wore bird crowns and multicolored painted robes. They were dressed in the style of the Upper Yuan and Shenshou festivals, to sing of the emperor’s achievements.”

Similar records are found in Xin Tang Shu /《新唐书》(Volume 22) and Taiping Yulan by Song Li Fang: “When Emperor Zhongzong ascended the throne, he created the Longchi music/龙池乐, with twelve dancers, wearing lotus crowns and stepping on special shoes, performing with elegant music, though without bells. He also created the ‘Shenshou music/《圣寿乐》,’ in which the female dancers wore five-colored embroidered robes and performed.

Additionally, he created the 'Xiao Po Zhen music/《小破阵乐》,’ with dancers dressed in armor. Lastly, the 'Guangsheng music/《光圣乐》’ had dancers wearing bird crowns and painted robes, to sing of the emperor’s accomplishments.”

Taiping Yulan (Volume 568, Music Section 6) records: “Empress Wu had the 'Bird Song for Ten Thousand Years’ music composed during a grand banquet in the Eastern Xiangluan Hall of the palace. At that time, birds capable of speaking were kept in the palace, and they often repeated 'Ten Thousand Years.’ This music was created to symbolize this. There were three dancers, with large red sleeves, adorned with painted birds resembling the 'quail-like bird’ (quyu). In present-day Lingnan, there are birds similar to the quail that, when raised for a long time, can speak, and they are called 'Jilie’/《鸡烈》.”

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Tang Dynasty Sancai female seated figurine from the Palace Museum

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The Boston Museum of Fine Arts houses a Tang Dynasty Sancai female seated figurine

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Tang Dynasty Female figurine of a horse-riding musician unearthed from the tomb of the county lord of Jinxiang

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chinese hanfu Tang Dynasty(618–907AD) hanfu hanfu accessories hanfu_challenge chinese traditional clothing china chinese Bird crown Dancer Chinese Aesthetics 漢服 汉服 中華風 古卷